Fish on Fire!
How to Make Emergency illumination Oil lamps, Lamp Oil, Candles and Torches
‘Fish on Fire’ …My Tuna Can Emergency Illumination Lighting Oil Lamp
Attention: Would the Reader who contacted me about LORA his (LOng RAnge communications network regarding a compilation of survival information) please contact me again. I cannot find your email.
The Reality
“The Reality of a Catastrophic Event is the shock to the mind that the effects it produces cannot be normally comprehended as possible” - Jack Lawson, Author of the Civil Defense Manual.
It is difficult, if not impossible, for me to understand each of your minds and and whether you think by common sense and logical methods.
There is a growing segment of Americans becoming aware of Preparing for chaos and disaster. By reading this… you are in this group already.
GOOD FOR YOU!
The following is a reprint from the Civil Defense Manual about illumination. There is mega loads more of this type of information is in the Civil Defense Manual. You can buy it here…
http://www.JackLawsonBooks.com
HERE’S ONE SIMPLE THING you can do for temporary illumination…
The emergency tuna fish can lamp
I certainly am not clever enough to come up with this. Someone smarter than me with a lot of time on their hands created this. It’s really simple… and one of those “Why didn’t I think of that!” ingenious devices.
Tuna Can Lamp Materials
It’s an old emergency lighting device that really works. Tuna fish, or any fish or food that is packed in a can with soybean, olive or vegetable oil… can be used as an emergency candle. Don’t open the can by taking the lid off.
To make this type of emergency candle, start with the can as you pull it off the shelf. Take a nail, and using a hammer, sharply punch a hole in the center of the can for the string wick. Pull lengths and twist or weave cotton gauze into a string for a wick… or use regular string.
The wick has to be something that absorbs the oil and the wick has to be pushed through the hole to the bottom of the can with something like a toothpick or wood splinter.
My Tuna Can Oil Lamp above
Once the wick is saturated with oil, light it, and the candle will burn for hours. The one in the photo burned for 9 hours, on into the wee hours of the night, in our sink.
When daylight breaks, open the can and eat the tuna fish for breakfast. The calories from the tuna fish will give you the energy to go out into the world to find a practical and sustainable source of light. Think… candles, lanterns, fuel oil, wicks… they’re cheap now. Go buy some… and plenty of fuel.
The simple “Fish on Fire” tuna can lamp will give you basic light for about 9 hours. And as always, I recommend you store cases and cases of bottled water, food, medicines and have some means to keep your self warm and firearms to protect yourself and your family…
…from what!?
From the violence that will come from those who have had their snouts stuck to the screen of their iPhone Entertainment Center, latest Netflix movie or consumed by their Social Justice movements… these will be the most violent people… and the least prepared. It’s all in the Civil Defense Manual… so let’s take a peek inside…
https://jacklawsonbooks.com/pages/whats-in-the-civil-defense-manual
How to make a torch
In ancient times, a torch pointed downward symbolized death, a torch held up symbolized life and truth. Like medieval scenes from movies, the torch in the castle wall holder comes to mind. Most crude torches don’t burn for long… about 20 minutes max. In small confined areas, a torch will asphyxiate you by smoke, carbon monoxide or other gases and oxygen depletion.
Including the following information is another small item that Readers have told me makes the Civil Defense Manual so appreciated by them as a reference manual… little bits of invaluable information such as this. If the combustible torch mixture contains sulfur and lime, the torch will not go out if put into water. You have to experiment to get the proper mixtures according to what type of wick material you use. But amazing! It makes everyone wish that they paid more attention in High School Chemistry Class.
In all these types of devices… torches, fat lamps, candles… the fat, oil or wax fuel is vaporized and burned as the fuel. Again, it is not the fuel or fluid that burns but the vapor… and the wick is simply the item that holds the flame in place. Some oils create the vapor by the heat of the flame.
Make the torch by winding cotton strips (the torch wick) from rags around one end of a wood stick to make it look like an oversized ‘Q Tip’ end for the Jolly Green Giant. The length of the stick should make the torch easy to handle. Soak the head in combustible oil and light it as a torch. The cotton rag doesn’t burn, the oil does. Unless carefully made to burn longer, torches will burn for about 20 to 25 minutes.
A torch is a fire waiting to cause a bigger fire to happen somewhere, and something you don’t want burning without it being watched and away from other flammables.
If you want a longer burning torch (40 minutes to 1 hour) that is premade, go to this seller’s site at… https://www.etsy.com/listing/534077148/handmade-wooden-fire-torch-medieval. Made in Latvia. The shipping is expensive but these have a good reputation. I have bought a bunch of these… very nice people, too
Open flame fire
Fire. Since the age of the Homo Sapiens and Neanderthal man, fire has been the means of cooking, keeping safe from sabre tooth tigers, lions and other predators, seeing in the dark and keeping warm. Fire can also be one of the ultimate of weapons in warfare and is normally overlooked as such. Its use has evolved in many ways… but it is still simply fire… which can be both friend and foe. See the Chapter in the Civil Defense Manual (CDM) on “Fire and fire protection.”
Fire Prevention Procedures need to be instituted when electricity goes off and your CDM recommended Neighborhood Protection PlanTM (NPP) is activated. Fires need to be supervised, watched and restricted 24/7. This should be done to minimize the attention the sight and smell of smoke and light that fires can draw to your NPP and to minimize accidental fires. Most heating or cooking fires will be in makeshift containers and in places that a fire should never be, like around flammables, draperies and other materials that simply easily catch on fire.
The wood burning fireplace that hasn’t been used for a decade and decorative ones or natural gas fueled fireplaces that aren’t suited to have open flame fires in, will be used in an attempt to heat and cook. The result will be buildings and homes burning to the ground during the aftermath of Catastrophic Events. This will happen because Fire Department response may be extremely slow or non-existent and some Fire Department water sources will not function after some Catastrophic Events.
This is another area that your NPP Leadership must educate people on… firefighting procedures and control to prevent accidental fires. All fires should be outside, when possible, to prevent collateral dangers like accidental fires, carbon monoxide, hydrogen cyanide gas poisoning and oxygen depletion in enclosed areas.
In a Grid Down situation after a Catastrophic Event, outside fire pits should be used only at night and in areas that contain the fire light as much as possible. Do your cooking and fire use at night if at all possible. Smoke will still be visible on full and partial moonlit nights, but smoke will definitely be visible during the day. To an Outsider or Intruder’s thought train… “Where there is smoke… there’s fire… and where there is fire… there’s food, water and warmth.” Fire discipline and time of use must be rigidly controlled by Leadership… or your NPP may suffer tremendously if it’s not.
Further, be aware that most synthetics, be they clothing or blankets, will melt from a fire and cling to the skin like hot wax. These will cause severe burns and major infections… way worse than cotton and natural materials which simply burn. See the dangers of gases from synthetics in the Chapter of the Civil Defense Manual on “Fire and fire protection.”
If you’ve come to using open flame after a Catastrophic Event, make sure there are no natural gas leaks from broken lines. In some areas, natural gas will still be flowing or trapped in gas lines and low-level areas, even though water, electricity and all other utilities may not be functioning.
How to make a grease, fat or oil lamp
Fat lamps. Lard lamps. These portable lamps are entrenched in ancient history. Don’t spill them as they will burn on and ignite whatever the fat or lard lands on. Use a larger plant pot two-thirds full of sand or soil to set the lamp in which provides a solid base and containment for spilt fuel as fire safety. Your lamp flame nestled just below the top edge of the sand or soil filled pot, keeps drafts from easily blowing it out but will still omit lots of light.
Just about any type of grease, oil or fat with a natural fiber wick can be used together in a fire proof container to create a lamp. These have also been referred to as fat lamps, AKA Gras lights. Think… New Orleans Mardi Gras, or as translated from the French words “Mardi Gras…” is “Fat Tuesday” in English. Too much to explain so… read about it.
A fat lamp is simply a high flash point fuel (fuel that will not burn until it gets ignited by a higher temperature) of over or around 400o Fahrenheit that surrounds a wick, the wick holding the flame. Will butter work for a lamp fuel? Yes! So will, lard, Crisco (Like you remember your mother used to cook with if you’re over 60), olive oil, paraffin wax (paraffin comes from the bottom of the tank in the gasoline distillation process), vegetable oil, yes, even your tube of Chapstick lip balm, palm wax, soy wax (From farm grown soybeans… is almost smokeless), tallow (animal fat), Vaseline (Also from the bottom of the tank in the gasoline distillation process… that’s why it’s called ‘Petroleum Jelly’).
Fuel that catches fire easily is termed ‘flammable’ and has a low flash point of under 100o Fahrenheit. You DO NOT USE this fuel for lamps. Flammables like naphtha, alcohol, acetone or gasoline… NO! If you do use these flammables… you will most likely be in the burn ward of a hospital… if there is one still functioning.
Fuel that doesn’t catch fire easily is termed ‘combustible’ and has a high flash point over 100o Fahrenheit. You DO USE this fuel for lamps. Like almost any combustible oil such as diesel fuel or the vegetable oil in the tuna fish can.
For more on fuel and proper and long lasting fuel storage, see the Chapter “Alternative power” in the Civil Defense Manual.
Glass containers
Mason and Kerr canning jars and other glass containers don’t work as oil lamps unless they are heat treated like ‘Pyrex’ glass. You know, what your Husband, Wife, Mom, Grandma cook a hot dish in the oven. Glass can withstand a fair amount heat to use for candles, but not much. Any glass container that is not treated as heat resistant can crack and shatter when the flame burns down too low.
Now, remember those cans and containers I encouraged you to save earlier in the Civil Defense Manual Chapter “Food, cooking and storage” at JackLawsonBooks.com? The time will come to use some of those. You can fashion all kinds of clever candle holders, grease and oil lamps out of them. You are creative… like the bored soldiers I served with were… you will figure out from this essay on how to fashion items like lamps out of containers.
When creating this type of candle, I suggest you melt the fat or lard into a fire proof container as most fats, lards and shortenings are packaged in plastic or foil lined card board containers that can leak or will catch fire if the candle is not constructed properly. They further will not last long in the package they are purchased in.
A fat, lard or ‘shortening’ lamp can be simply made and will give you light for hours. Don’t leave these unattended or let the kids mess around with them. Keep the burning wick centered, if the container is not metal and the wick is floating, to prevent the container material from catching fire. You need a straw or something similar to poke and form a hole down through the lard to insert the wick.
The wick can be natural materials, not synthetics. Cotton string, small diameter rope, twine, a thin wooden dowel, or in a pinch, tightly rolled up paper stuck down into the hole. This wick placement works great when the wick is pushed down through the straw in the fat, lard or shortening. Then carefully pull the straw out, leaving the wick in the fat, lard or shortening.
Oil Lamps Defined
A lamp is a device that holds and burns fuel, typically combustible oil, as a means of producing light. Although oil lamps have taken on a variety of shapes and sizes throughout history, the basic required components are a wick, fuel, a reservoir for fuel, and an air supply to maintain a flame.
Diagram of oil lamp features courtesy of the Milwaukee Public Museum (Westenholz, 2004).
A little bit about the history of oil burning lamps…
Some of the earliest lamps, dating to the Upper Paleolithic (Spain, Southern Europe and Eastern Mediterranean areas of the Late Stone Age), were stones with depressions in which animal fats were likely burned as a source of light.
An “Open Saucer” lamp
Shells, such as conch or oyster, were also employed as lamps, and even may have served as the prototype for early lamp forms. Clay lamps appeared during the Bronze Age around the 16th century BC and were abundant throughout the Roman Empire. Initially, they took the form of a saucer with a floating wick.
All the following, and mega loads more of information such as Tactics and Surviving a Gun Battle, are in the Civil Defense Manual. You can buy it here…
http://www.JackLawsonBooks.com
Open saucer lamp
Soon after, these saucers began to develop a pinched or folded rim which resulted in a nozzle and served the purpose of holding the wick in place, thus controlling the flame as well as the smoke. Lamps with folded rims are often referred to as “cocked-hat” lamps.
As they evolved, clay lamps became more enclosed, moving from a pinched nozzle to a bridged nozzle, and sporting the addition of a rim. These changes aided in increasing the reservoir capacity and reducing the amount of oil lost through spillage.
A “Cocked hat” saucer lamp. Courtesy of the Milwaukee Public Museum… a wealth of historical knowledge.
Lamps also began to show signs of experimentation with changes in overall body shape and the addition of multiple nozzles, a handle, and clay slips, a coating that was applied to the outside of clay lamps during production in an effort to prevent oil from seeping through the porous clay.
These technological advances have been accredited to the Greeks, whose lamps were exported all over the Mediterranean between the sixth and fourth centuries BC due to their high quality of craftsmanship.
Let’s talk wax fueled candles. For a candle to burn, the candle’s wick is lit by another fire source. The flame of the wick melts and vaporizes a small amount of the combustible wax, which is fuel, surrounding the flame. The vaporized wax combines with oxygen through convection (circulation currents from heat) movement around the wick flame to ignite and form a consistent flame on the wick, just above the candle wax. What determines the burning time of a candle is the dimension and shape of what holds the wax and wick… and the quality of the wick.
Ah! Times haven’t changed much. In days of yore, the rich would use beeswax candles while the peasants, now referred to as we are, Joe Schmoe, would use rendered animal fat… tallow. That being said, even in the High Mucky Muck’s castle rooms, candles of wax might be used only on special occasions. Light from the fireplace, the oil lamp and torch were much more common sources of illumination.
How to make candle wax from bee honeycomb
Somewhere there will bees, or someone will have bees (no pun intended as in mind your beeswax) as a business, in a Grid Down situation. You need their honeycomb… which is beeswax, not the honey… for candles. Beeswax candles emit a pleasant scent of nectar and honey and are they’re naturally smokeless.
Bees wax is essentially the equivalent, to a bee, as our crap is to us. However, I don’t think ours would give a pleasant odor burning. Going through the work of making beeswax candles will encourage you to never throw any candle wax away. You can collect it, re-melt it to make new candles… then, you just need the candle wick material.
Let’s make beeswax for candles…
Crush and strain honey from the honeycomb.
Put the crushed pieces of honeycomb in a cheese cloth type towel bundle and tie the four corners at the top.
Place the bundle in a large pot of water and heat to just over 150o Fahrenheit, but do not go over 180o.
Once it appears that most of the wax has melted out of the bundle, slowly pull the bundle from the pot using a stick to lift it out. Twist the tied ends of the bundle with a stick from the top down to the remaining honeycomb. That will extract the remaining wax from the bundle.
The honeycomb wax will float to the surface of the water and when the pot cools remove the surface wax.
There will be some pure honey in the bottom of the pot so slowly pour off the water.
Discard the remnants of the bundle from the towel.
The surface wax can be further melted into thin sheets or melted into the container for your candle once you put a wick in the container… or, you can roll the thin sheets of beeswax tightly around a wick and place in a jar.
Shazam! Fire it up… and there will be light!
How to make wick material
If you buy wick material, you will notice that most consist of flat woven material. The reason for this is when the wick burns, it curls over into the flame where it is completely burned and doesn’t leave ashes that contaminate the candle wax. Natural fibers work best for wicks. Like cotton thread, dried plant fiber or even a wooden dowel will work for a wick (wood needs periodic trimming off of the burnt wood if it gets much over a ¼ inch long).
Other resources that can be used for wick materials… wooden splinters, cotton threads from clothes twisted into a string, hemp and like stringy fibers from dried plants, white cotton kite string (does anyone even know what a kite is now days) or gardener’s string, non-synthetic mop head fibers, non-synthetic twine, toilet paper, cotton shoe laces.
Wick material soaked in a solution of borax and salt produces a brighter candle, reduces the smoke produced and slows the burning process for a longer burning candle. Keep your children and pets away from borax as it’s toxic when it’s ingested or the dust is inhaled. You'll use this Borax solution to treat the base wick material when it has no wax on it.
Let’s make some bright burning and long-lasting candle wick material…
Dissolve a solution of 1 tablespoon of borax and 3 tablespoons of salt by stirring it into a quart of boiling water.
While the solution is cooling, submerse your twisted cotton string or braided flat cotton rope into the solution. Leave the rope soak in the borax and salt solution for 24 hours.
Take the rope out with a fork and hang it outside to dry for 48 hours.
At this point the candle wick is ready to use unless you want to coat it with candle wax to stiffen it… as follows....
Melt 4 tablespoons of candle wax in a small container.
Dip the borax/salt impregnated wick into the molten candle wax covering the wick rope completely with wax.
Hang the wax covered wick as a straight waxed string to dry. Do this process again if you want a stiffer wick.
All the following, and mega loads more of information such as Tactics and Surviving a Gun Battle, are in the Civil Defense Manual. You can buy it here…
http://www.JackLawsonBooks.com
Candles that are a natural mosquito repellent when burned
Citronella candles. Citronella Oil can be used as an antiseptic, deodorant, insecticide and for parasite control. But let’s concentrate on one aspect of Citronella Oil that is a definite… it’s a natural mosquito repellant. More accurately, Citronella Oil makes humans invisible to mosquitos. Only the female mosquito detects human beings by sensing the carbon dioxide we exhale. A female mosquito knows that if she follows the smell of carbon dioxide to the source, she’ll find a red-blooded animal that she can suck blood out of to feed her eggs and provide her nutrition.
Blood sucking females!? I’ve known a few females like that!
Citronella Oil masks carbon dioxide which keeps the mosquito from zeroing in on us. Whether it’s part of the candle burning or the oil put directly on skin, the fragrance from it conceals us from the mosquito. Citronella Oil stains clothes and is not good for the lungs if inhaled constantly.
How to make citronella oil
You need 1/4 ounce of nard grass (aka Lemongrass and Cymbopogon) leaves and stems. Lemongrass is gown in the United States, but depending on where you live, you may have trouble finding it. Get a book on the botany of your area and learn to identify Lemongrass in the wild NOW, during Normal Civility.
You need one cup of olive oil or a like neutral ‘medium’ oil to absorb the Citronella Oil.
Use a slow cooker such as Crock-Pot or a low temperature Dutch oven buried at the edge of a fire. You need to keep the fire going for six hours to keep the temperature high enough.
Cut the nard grass leaves and stems into one-inch pieces.
Combine the olive oil and nard grass leaves and stems in the slow cooker.
Cook the oil and nard grass mixture for six hours.
Strain the mixture using a cheesecloth. The strained mixture is your citronella oil. Discard the nard grass.
Mix the oil into your candle wax at a ratio of 10 drops of Citronella Oil to a pound of melted candle wax.
How to make lamp oil
Your NPP should have located and marked any birch trees close by. The bark of other trees may work, but birch bark is easy to pull off the birch tree. As the birch tree grows, it ‘sheds’ its bark in pieces. These cannot be too dry. The birch tree is a hardwood tree and is a member of the same family of trees as the alder and oak tree.
Birch trees are considered ‘weed’ trees by many arborists. They have a short life span but are considered an invasive problem tree that are akin to unwanted weeds. Once they get into an area… they are like Cousin Gretchen the mooch… they’re hard to get rid of and they keep coming back.
Birch trees also require sunny areas, so look for them in open areas and near streams, lakes or rivers. Birch trees typically grow in lowland areas in the Continental United States. Birch trees can be found where the soil is cool and consistently moist, but it also grows well in soil that most shrubs, trees and plants do not do well in.
However, birch trees have shallow root systems that will not withstand dry, hot areas and soil. Their shallow root systems are sensitive to drought but ironically, birch trees are often one of the first trees to pop up after a fire.
The birch tree has long been a source for beer, tea, and syrup (from the sap of the sweet white birch), through different processes. The ‘birch still’ was as popular as the ‘moonshine’ still at one time, but not as illegal. This oil was referred to ‘Birch Oil’ and ‘Oil of Wintergreen’ that was used to flavor candy and medicines way back. It has been replaced by synthetic wintergreen flavoring.
Birch oil is Mother Nature’s fuel oil. Unlike other oils, birch oil extract is heavier than water and will sink to the bottom. This oil can be extracted by heat and used for lamp fuel, lubricating grease and sealant.
As a sealant, it’s one heck of a lot less messy than pine pitch. You know, pine pitch like the kind Clark Griswold got off his Christmas tree when he was lying in bed trying to turn pages of a magazine with his fingers stuck to them by pine pitch in the movie “National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation.”
I hope you love trees as much as I do. So, if you’re going to start stripping birch trees of their bark, look for trees recently fallen that have bark on them that is not totally dried out.
You can easily extract birch oil by building a fire and using the two can extraction method. One can is the ‘still can’ with a hole in the bottom, centered over the ‘collection can’ underneath. Pack the ‘still can,’ with a ½” hole cut in the center of the bottom, with birch bark. Pack the birch bark in like toilet paper is layered on itself. Strip the birch bark off in pieces that will set edgewise below the top of your ‘still can.’
Start from the outer edge and lay the birch pieces close together until the can’s packed full. The other can sits underneath to collect the oil tar that will drip from the hole in the top can. Bury your collection can at the bottom of the fire pit with the edge above the bottom to keep ashes out. Put the ‘still can’ on top of the ‘collection can,’ cover the ‘still can’ to keep the birch bark from catching fire.
Place your firewood around the ‘still can’ and fire your pit. The heat from the fire will soon produce a collection can full of birch black oil tar. Actually, it will look like the oil from the engine of one of my past girlfriend’s brand-new car that she never knew needed to be changed… black, smelly and thick.
Birch black oil tar is very smelly, but can be immediately used in lamps, including the Ye Olde Englishe Oile Lampe type, as in the photo. I am still perplexed and amused by the English putting an ‘e’ at the end of every word in the Olde English written language. So is pointe pronounced “pointy” or “point” and if not “pointy” then why?
Back on subject… If you want to make a super-good tar like sealant, cook off more of the liquid until you get the consistency of birch tar you want. The oily tar extracted from birch makes great waterproofing for winter snow boots. I sealed an old pair of leather boots that allowed melted snow to seep in and wet my socks.
Ye olde Englishe Oile Lampe… the genie didn’t come out of this, but light did…
I am not a shoe store’s best friend… I had my boots for over 45 years like most clothes and shoes I own that I can still fit into… which is not my Rhodesian camouflaged fatigue jacket… that guy was a much thinner version of Jack Lawson. However, I take care of my belongings.
I used a pasty consistency of birch tar, thoroughly working the tar into the sole to uppers seams or joints with a stiff toothbrush. My feet didn’t get wet for years, as long as I put mink oil over and kept the uppers wax polished.
WARNING! When the electricity goes off…
By noise from electrically powered tools or equipment, children, dogs and especially electrical OR OTHER light. Along with sounds we make that you don’t think twice about during Normal Civility, any human or other noise will attract unwanted attention to You, Your Family and neighbors. YOU MUST HAVE LIGHT CONTROL AND DISCIPLINE DURING DARK HOURS. Have windows blackout covered and doors closed. I post numerous warnings about this in the Civil Defense Manual and how to provide light for dark hours living without “Outsiders” knowing.
Crying children, babies and generally any noise made by humans… dogs barking (Mrs. Pumpernickel’s 5 Star Blue Ribbon Award Winning Show Poodle will be a meal in itself for roving hungry people)… the smell of cooking food… outside open flame, fires and the smoke from them… etc. All these will draw attention to you from “others.” On reconnaissance operations in Africa, the Tribal Africans could smell toothpaste on your breath and two-day-old aftershave two hundred meters away. That is how different your world will be when “The lights go out.” Your senses will become acute!
Those “others” will know that you most likely have something they need to survive. I call this group of people “Outsiders.” They will have firearms… as almost every American has firearms… but almost every American also has no stored Water or Food. They WILL NOT be coming to play Pinochle nor will they knock on your door out of courtesy. Further, they will not be in a State of Mind to be pleasant when they ‘appear out of nowhere’ around your home or area. They will be DESPERATE and as stealthy and deadly as a combat veteran Special Operations Soldier. You will be playing a “Cat and Mouse” game with them by which Rules of Action will determine which of you will live. Those Rules of Action are… there are no ‘rules.’ Those the most cunning and ruthless will win.
You cannot defend your area by yourself against an overwhelming mob. You will need the cooperation of your neighbors to defend to survive. You will need “Strength through Numbers.” You will need to form my concept of a CDM Neighborhood Protection PlanTM NOW WHILE YOU CAN !!
The previous five paragraphs of words of warning, should alone, convey to you the need to buy the Civil Defense Manual for you to understand how different the world that you will be existing in will be and how you need to adapt to it to survive.
The reality of where we are…
When we begin the massive attack on Iran on behalf of the Zionists… PRAY that the members of Iranian and other foreign “Sleeper Cells,” PLUS all the other American hating “refugees” we’ve let in to America without knowing anything about them… do not begin to disrupt American infrastructure. Life as we know it will drastically change.
Electric down? No Water and Food supplies? Random and mass shootings? These people are already in America and they are many. Yet no one seems to know where they are.
They have entered in the last decades walking across the WOKE, KUMBAYA, “COME TO AMERICA FOR REFUGE” welcome mat. Like the one in front of your house door. Although that mat summons all with an indiscriminate invitation… you may not like some who step across it to force their way into your home… and you certainly won’t like these foreign ‘sleeper cells’ and haters of America. They want You and Yours dead.
Have I got my ‘tin foil conspiracy doom and gloom hat’ on? Maybe too tight? Well, both my Wife and I’ve lived in what I describe here, so her and I know it’s very probable. Like Matt Bracken states… Americans live in a “High Trust Society” open to this occurring. High Trust…like few homes have ‘people deterrent’ walls around and between them. ANYONE can simply walk right up to your front or back door. High Trust. Few countries in the world are like America. Most Americans don’t think about this and don’t think with realism because they’ve not been exposed to Third and Fourth World living. My Wife and I have!
From a massive bombing of Iran that may trigger the Chinese to invade Taiwan. The Chinese may take advantage of much of our military being in the Middle East and us unable to send enough to defend Taiwan from a Chinese invasion. Expect disruption of the supply chain to at some point occur. Foreign hacking and disruption of our infrastructure that provides us Life Essential Items has been perfected over the last three plus decades. We just haven’t seen it in full blown action. This means disruption of Life Essential necessities that most people can’t stay alive without. If you don’t see the frailty of our supply system, you need to buy the Civil Defense Manual and learn why our system is complex and fragile. When the shortage or absence gets to Water and Food… you will immediately understand. Not only because you will be without Water and Food, it will become apparent by people at your front door coming for what Water and Food they think you will have… and kicking your door in to take what you have by force.
I recently had lunch with Alfred Packer, Author of one of the previous Newsletter Postings… “DO IT YOURSELF… Building a 3500 Watt Portable Battery Pack Power Unit.” His unit solves temporary electric outages. His take on Americans not Preparing is this… they are purposefully burying their heads in the sand like the ‘proverbial ostrich,’ not wanting to know or think about what’s coming… just hoping it won’t happen and will go away. I think Alfred is right. Most people don’t want to live with the worry of our Normal Civility disrupted or gone, so they block out all indications from their thought and do not prepare. This crowd is where much of the term “Conspiracy Theorist” comes from… these people actually hate those that are trying to make them aware of impending disaster. They want to “Kill the Messenger.”
Ignoring what is said here and other places is NOT what we recommend. The primary directive of the Civil Defense Manual is to be Prepared and THEN don’t worry. You will have the confidence and feeling of security to be able to survive what’s coming.
Sorry, Folks… chaos to some degree will affect Americans. When? …that’s not the important question. THE IMPORTANT QUESTION IS ARE YOU PREPARED? You can continue to be lulled to sleep by the Globalist-Elite Predator Class-Leftist-Marxist-Internationals-One World Order-Woke & Whackos and their owned and controlled CNNCBSABCFOXNBCNYT et-al Mainstream News and illusionary Entertainment Media… and pray for Captain America to save you.
So, like the ostrich, most people can’t or don’t want to see what’s going on around them. They don’t want to worry themselves with a sick feeling. And like the ostrich, only their head is protected… but when the head is cut off… the body will die. That’s what will happen to most Americans if our infrastructure is disrupted or destroyed.
Born and raised in our “High Trust Society,” most Americans can’t even imagine what my Wife and I have lived through… especially when what’s written here happened to her “High Trust Society” overnight. They now have barbed wire topped walls around homes in suburban areas and their houses are like a fortress. But most learned painful lessons first… a good share fatal lessons.
Read this… it is precisely what IS COMING TO YOUR WORLD…
Along with all this, like ‘Dominos’ cascading and knocking over other Dominos, there will be multiple other Catastrophic Events that will occur at the same time making you believe that hell is visiting Earth. Maybe fuel shortages, lock downs, failure of the internet to function, Martial Law being declared, trucks not delivering… causing Water and Food to not be available, hacking and disruption of financial institutions and disruption of just about every type of business… need I go on?
Systems taken for granted… such as electrical… will not function. For one thing… your sources of light during darkness hours will be limited.
I hope you got some good information from this essay… a peek at the information that will benefit you from the Civil Defense Manual, as our many Readers have commented to me or our staff… that they have found nowhere else.
http://www.JackLawsonBooks.com
The Author advises the Reader that the Author, the Contributing Authors, Publisher, Copyright Holders, Website Administrators are not attorneys and some recommendations or actions in this book that the Reader takes may lead to loss… financial and otherwise, injury or death. The Author, the Contributing Authors, Publisher, Copyright Holders will not be liable for situations that arise from the Reader’s interpretations, recommendations or misunderstanding of material in this essay, article, supplement, newsletter, emails, my books The Civil Defense Primer, the Civil Defense Manual or the Author’s instructions to others. Even though the Reader may determine that action or inaction to be as instructed by this book or in the spirit of simple self-defense, it may not be viewed that way by authorities in some States and Locales and the Authors accept no responsibility for your actions. Consult an attorney and apply common sense and their advice in your actions and interpretation of instructions and recommendations from us.
Reader’s actions or implementation of recommendations and information or misinformation from this book or essay, article, supplement, newsletter, email… may lead to the Reader’s liability, loss of their money or that of others or other damages or injury or death. You’re all adults… behave as responsible, safe, compassionate, common sense, lawful adults. Verify your Federal, State and Local laws and ordinances before using the information in this book or essay, article, supplement, newsletter or email. As an adult… make your decisions independent of advice, information or misinformation from my books The Civil Defense Primer, A Collapse Of Society, the Civil Defense Manual and any and all other information. Wear big people’s pants and live with the decisions you make as your decisions… made by your independent thinking mind. Don’t blame others for your mistakes or misfortune… and that includes us.
Other authors, books and resources I recommend for Preparedness and Survival… because I don’t do this just for money… it’s also for my children, grandchildren, Americans and America!
Recommended Blogs, Internet Shows and Websites…
Western Rifle Shooters Association at:
https://www.westernrifleshooters.online/
Matt Bracken at: www.EnemiesForeignAndDomestic.com
AND Matt Bracken’s Substack
Forward Observer at: www.ForwardObserver.com
General Michael Flynn’s Substack at:
Normal American at: NormalAmerican.com
NC Scout at: www.brushbeater.org
SELCO at: www.shtfschool.com/ (His books and his Survival Boot Camp)
Johnny Paratrooper at: www.patreon.com/GreenDragonAcademy
Prepared Airman at: www.preparedairman.bigcartel.com/
Big Country Expat at: www.bigcountryexpat.com/
Stan Szymanski at: www.EcouragingAngels.org
Survivor Library at: www.survivorlibrary.com
Joe Dolio at: www.Tactical-Wisdom.com
Nehemiah Strong at: www.johndyslin.com/
Don Shift at: www.amazon.com/Don-Shift/e/
Daisy Luther at: www.theorganicprepper.com
Christopher Parrett at: www.ldsavow.com
The Tactical Hermit at: www.thetacticalhermit.com
J.C. Dodge at: www. www.masondixontactical.wordpress.com/
Infantry Dort at: https://www.InfantryDort.Substack.com
The Civil Defense Manual is AVAILABLE ONLY at…
We DO NOT SELL through Amazon or EBay and their price gougers who are selling the author’s book for up to three times what we sell it for. That’s hard for me to believe!
All the above, and mega loads more of information such as Tactics and Surviving a Gun Battle, are in the Civil Defense Manual. You can buy it here…
http://www.JackLawsonBooks.com
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